On arriving by boat to the Water Village, you used to anchor up by this pavillion. Facing the new, big cruisers, another, bigger pavillion has been built.
The evergreen waters, the silent mountains – and the lifting fog – brightened my spirit. I knew this would be the highlight of our journey.
Cruising along the Yangtze River, you can still see fishermen rowing a wooden boat from which they fish. The history of fishing on the Yangtze River can be traced back seven thousand years.
The small wooden boat is usually twelve feet long and three or four feet wide, the boat usually has five to six cabins including the navigation cabin, engine room and the living cabins. With the rise in living standard along the Yangtze River, fishermen have installed diesel engines on their boats to save manpower.
To catch fish, there are usually two ways: net casting and using hooks. Daytime, fishermen cast nets with large stones as anchors. Then, one or two boats drag two ends of the net to catch the fish. Fishing hooks are put out before sunset and reeled in with the fish in the morning.
Every year, the fishermen repair the boat during the hot days of July and August. When the Chinese traditional Lantern Festival comes, the family usually eats a reunion lunch in the cabin and sticks incense on the fore at the same time burning papers and shooting off firecrackers to sacrifice to the water god for good sailing and good catch.
Don’t see evil
Don’t speak evil
Don’t listen to evil
On our walk along the river, we were first met by stone faces speaking to everyone about what to do to fend off Evil…
Then – soft flute music reached our ears. A beautiful girl standing on the deck of an old wooden boat, and a man playing the flute, releasing its silvery tunes over the river.
Of course they were posing for us – but the old ways of this people, the Tujia, were both breathtaking and esthetically shown to us. As a visitor I could not but use my eyes and ears in silence. It hurts to watch the beauty and the sad loss of the old ways – even if we know about the hardships they meant as well. It is the same everywhere in the world.
Following the wooden pathway by the river, the silent calmness and serenity overwhelmed me. This was indeed a picture of a Lost Paradise.
The lush bamboo and the stillness in the air, the boats and the fishing nets – and the sun lifting the veil of mist.
Only the faint sound of the flute faraway, and the sound of birds rustling in the foliage. Tears in my eyes. It doesn’t matter if this gloryfying of the old is just…gloryfying. This little village shows the essence of old Chinese life, art, painting and poetry.
Leaving this Paradisiac painting and hiking further into the river valley, we approached some water wheels and an old homestead.
On the little arched bridge, a young couple was standing – obviously this used to be a popular place for lovers to meet.
Soon we were to see a little performance on the marriage customs – Weeping Marriage of the Tujia Ethnic Minority.
The marriage date for girls of the Tujia Ethnic Minority ia usually welcomed with crying. According to custom, the new bride should begin to cry half a month or one month before the wedding ceremony. Whether a girl could cry about her marriage became a criterion to value the girl’s ability and virtue.
Her friends cry for her
The bride is always veiled
Song and music
In order to be regarded as a good girl, the girl begins to study how to cry for marriage when she is twelve years old. Some will invite an experienced person to teach them. When 15 years old, girls will invite each other to match who cries best and teach each other.
There are songs which are sung when weeping for marriage. These include singing for parents, sisters, brothers, the matchmaker and ancestors. When singing the weeping marriage songs, the emotions are fully expressed through the mournful tones. They say that on hearing the vivid and strong words of the song, even the toughest man can’t fight back his tears.
The weeping songs can be sung by one person or by two. If one girl sings, she will cry for her destiny, the deep affection to her relatives and the feudalistic marriage custom she suffers under. When two girls are weeping together, it is called ”sister crying.” The bride cries and sings first, and then the other one will sing together with the bride to console her.
The Bride unveiled
It is said that the weeping marriage custom originates from the marriage system in the old times. Girls sang and cried denouncing the marriage system and dreaming of flinging off its chains. Today, although Tujia girls can choose their loved ones freely, they still cry out of tradition.
Our lovely Tujia guides. The basket on their back will show if they are married or not. Carrying flowers – free, carrying a baby – married.
Before reaching the waterfalls, we saw the bamboo forest swaying – monkeys! Maybe we would get closer on the other side of the river.
But first – the falls. Not very big, but fresh mountain water falling through the lush bamboo forest. Have you ever seen an old Chinese painting?
The narrow gorge ahead of us.
Hiking back, quietly, everybody pondering and reflecting on their impressions…
…I suddenly found more reflecting and pondering faces – monkeys. This one became my favourite during the short time we were listening to them and watching them climbing rocks and branches. He was sitting there on the rock with his wise little face turned slightly upwards. Sometimes he glanced at his hands and into the greenery, but never jumped around making ooooooooooo – sounds like the others. I called him the Philosopher.
These monkeys had bushy tails instead of sleek ones to use for gripping branches. Unfortunately none of our guides could name the species. I tried to find them when I got home, but the closest I get is Rhesus Makak. If anybody knows – please write me!
This trip back into the China of old; customs, art, painting and writing, I am certain will stay with me forever.
Because this is no more
I really loved the Palo Santo trees. They seem to cover the whole island, making it look very arid – but also very beautiful, sculptural and silver shimmering.
The shore line is very jagged, and even here the Palo Santo rules.
The volcano has been long extinct, and is now eroding, supporting the vegetation with important nutrients.
The Palo Santo would be all green in a couple of weeks…according to Juan, our guide. I loved these silvery trees, but it would be a dream to visit when they are green as well. Mimosa grows here too – just imagine everything here green and yellow!
Warden Spirits 